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By
EWAN KENNEDY
24 July 2006
Mazda is running hot in
the Australian sales race at the moment, being the number
one importer pretty consistently in the sales race. The
Mazda 626 is one of the cars that laid the foundation for
the company’s success.
The 626 is a mid-size model
that carries the authority of being fully imported from Japan.
Built to a high standard, it is frequently reported by its
owners to be trouble free for years on end. It enjoys
semi-prestige status in Australia and has high resale value.
It’s easy to drive though
less sporting in its nature than the Mazda6 which replaced it
midway through 2002. This Mazda is smooth to ride in and
corners well, though it may be on the rough side on bad roads
in the bush due to relatively soft suspension travel. The 626
has long been a favourite with retirees or those more
interested in comfort than sporty motoring.
Some find older models
difficult to place in tight parking spots due to their rounded
lines and relatively high rear-three-quarter panels.
Most 626s are powered by
four-cylinder engines, but interestingly, a 2.5-litre V6 was
added to the options list in 1991. Though very smooth and
quiet, the 626 V6 was only a moderate success mainly because
it was significantly more expensive than the four-cylinder. In
any case, the four provided more than enough grunt for most
owners in this class. Around town, in fact, the 2.0-litre four
can actually feel livelier than the six because of its lower
gearing.
The V6 engine was dropped when
a new-model Mazda 626 was launched in July 1997.
Four-cylinder engines are sold
with a choice between five-speed manual and four-speed
automatic transmission. The V6 came only with an automatic as
befitted its upmarket status.
In 1997, at the same time as it
pulled the V6 engine option, Mazda, which was in financial
trouble at the time, gave its 626 a rather conservative look.
This flew in the face of history as the model had long been in
the vanguard of interesting styling. However, it didn’t
affect sales overmuch so there are plenty on the used-car
market at any time.
Body types in the Mazda 626
being covered here are four-door sedans, five-door hatchbacks
and five-door station wagons.
The wagon skipped a generation
in its styling, meaning that the 1991 to 1997 model was a
revamp of the 1988 model, not using the curvaceous lines of
the sedans and hatches of the era. The wagon didn't get the V6
engine, only being offered as a 2.2-litre four. It had a
raised roofline for extra load space, and an optional extra
row of children’s seats in the back. The sedan, hatch and
wagon line-ups became common again with the introduction of
the new station wagon in January 1998.
Interior room could be a little
larger in the 1991 to 1996 models as it loses some space due
to its sporty shape. The boot is good in both models, with the
hatchback being particularly spacious.
Spare parts prices are a little
above average for the class but are easy to obtain. Indeed,
many parts are interchangeable with the Ford Telstar as the
two cars are very much the same in most ways. The Ford was
only sold until the end of 1996.
Though relatively easy to work
on, the 626 is a complex car which is best left to the expert
mechanic, or at least to a home handyperson with above average
knowledge.
Insurance is generally
moderately priced and we don't know of any companies that
charge extra for a V6 engine compared with the four-cylinder.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
The engine should start within
a second or so, even when it’s cold. It should settle into a
steady idle virtually from the moment it kicks over.
Acceleration should be virtually instantaneous and there
should be no smoke from the exhaust pipe.
If the automatic transmission
is slow at picking up a drive gear from Park or Neutral it may
be due for an overhaul.
Make sure that the brakes pull
up the car easily and that ABS, if fitted, operates properly.
A pulsing through the pedal will tell you everything’s OK.
This Mazda generally ages well,
though if ill treated can look shabby in a relatively short
space of time. In particular, look for cars with faded paint
on horizontal surfaces and drying and cracking on the dashtop
and rear parcel tray.
Poorly repaired body damage
will show up as paint which doesn’t match properly from
panel to panel, and/or a ripply finish instead of a steady
curve in a panel. Also look for tiny spots of paint on
non-painted parts such as glass and badges.
Very bad repairs can leave the
body twisted. This can only be checked properly by an expert
panel beater or an inspector from your motorist’s
association.
Check the condition of the
interior for damage caused by kids, such as split trim in the
seats or badly scuffed carpet.
© Copyright
Marque Publishing Company
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